Visualizing European unity: Gorizia/Nova Gorica

Everyone knows about the Berlin wall, but for decades there was another divided city in Europe, and by divided I mean, literally, traversed by a wall. After WWII ended, Italy had to surrender some territories of what now are Slovenia and Croatia to the newly created Yugoslavia. Italy managed to retain most of the city of Gorizia, but the train station and its surrounding area went to Yugoslavia, that started to develop a new city, Nova Gorica, that mirrored the Italian one across the border. Although Yugoslavia was officially a non-aligned country, the wall that separated both cities was a physical barrier between the communist East and the Western world. The wall run next to people's houses and through gardens and the magnificent entrance of the station, in Yugoslavia, was facing anything but the wall, giving the situation a surreal touch.

Fortunately, this is now over. Slovenia joined the EU in 2004, with Italian and Slovenian prime ministers meeting in the center of the station square to celebrate the event.

When I visited the station, there was no activity whatsoever and by looking at the wooden interiors, it seemed that the time had stopped in 1947. It is now possible to walk but not drive across the square, as a marking stone, some flowers and a low-lying fence still act as barriers and demarcate the line. A monument in the center of the square, just where the border lies, commemorates the end of the division .

In this blog(in Spanish)there are some interesting pictures.

The Pyrenees from Tuixent (Alt Urgell), Catalonia

El català i el romanx, llengües germanes

Aquesta setmana passada he tingut la oportunitat de visitar la zona on es troben les fronteres d'Itàlia, Àustria i Suïssa, la Val Venosta en italià o Vinschgau, que és el seu nom alemany. La gran majoria dels seus habitants parla l'alemany, tot i que l'italià també és oficial, ja que aquest territori va a passar a formar part d'Itàlia al final de la Primera Guerra Mundial, el que em va cridar l'atenció, però, és que tot sintonitzant la ràdio del cotxe vaig poder sentir un tercer idioma, que no era ni alemany ni italià i que sonava com si fos català. Es tractava d'una emissora romanx, ja que la Val Venosta/Vinschgau es troba al costat mateix de l'extrem més oriental de Suïssa, el cantó dels Grisons, on una part de la població té el romanx com a llengua nativa. Tot i haver viscut durant un temps a Suïssa, era la primera vegada que escoltava parlar romanx, i això s'explica, perque, tot i ser una de les llengües oficials de la Confederació Helvètica, només la parlen un 0,5% dels seus habitants (de 35.000 a 50.000 persones aproximadament) i aquests es concentren en un dels racons més remots i muntanyosos dels país. De fet, com explica la wikipedia, els parlants de romanx, a més de ser pocs, no ocupen un territori compacte dins del propi cantó dels Grisons i estan distribuits en una espècie d'"illes" o enclaus lingüistics en contacte amb territoris italianòfons o germanòfons. Per al catalanoparlant que entra en contacte amb el romanx, la primera reacció podria ser de certa sorpresa, ja que paraules i frases senceres semblen pròpiament catalanes, encara que amb un accent especial, per a la oïda d'un catalanoparlant sona una mica com català parlat per alguna persona de llengua nativa germànica. Tot i que demogràficament no són dues situacions comparables, no deixa de sorprendre com català i romanx semblen haver evolucionat paral·lelament des del llatí, una al peu dels Pirineus, l'altra dels Alps.

Itàlia: escenes variades

Imatges: Venezia, Verona, Trento, Süd-Tyrol/Alto Adige, Dolomiti

The Isle of Wight

Views: St.Catherine's lighthouse, Osborne House, The Solent, Southampton Harbour

A day in the Cotswolds

Images of a Saturday in the Cotswolds. It hardly gets more English than this!

Summer weekends in England

Summer in England is great for sightseeing, quite sunny but not too hot, and there is no shortage of places to visit beyond the classical Oxford and Cambridge, as this island is literally packed with history. So, after visiting the home of the Royal Navy and the old glories of the time when Britannia ruled the waves (see previous post), the following weekends have taken me to two other places of historical significance for this country, and both within easy reach from London.

First, Windsor castle, the largest castle in the World still in use


Windsor Castle courtyard


A platoon of Guards in full dress


Tower with Royal Flag (the flag on top means that She is in!)

Then to the East Sussex Coast, the point where William the Conqueror landed with his Norman knights to change the history of this island forevermore. The Battle of Hastings, that represented the beginning of the Norman occupation of England and a move towards stronger links between Britain, France and the European mainland and away from the Scandinavian sphere of influence. It is remember not only by the name of the village that stands on the ground where it took place, called simply "Battle", but in the impressive remains of the abbey that the Normans built at the site. Also nearby the fishing village of Hastings, a place that has seen better times, and the picturesque medieval village of Rye, an old port now several km. inland, that has preserved a cozy atmosphere.



Battle Abbey


The battlefield


Postbox, notice the initials VR, Victoria Regina (aka Queen Victoria), looks like this postbox has been around for a while


Taking pictures at Rye's main street


A solitary beach in Hastings


The East Sussex Coast

Sea, sun and ships

Here are some pictures taken at Portsmouth last Sunday, besides the sunny (and windy!) day, great contrasts between the old warships of the Royal Navy, HMS Victory, that led the British forces at Trafalgar in 1805 and where Nelson died (it is still in commission with the Royal Navy, so it is the longest serving warship in the World!) and HMS Warrior of 1860, and the futuristic spire (Dubai style) that dominates the modern docks.

Gamle Danmark

Pictures: Nyhavn (Copenhaguen), beaches and sunset at Langø



Video: Danish National Anthem by Miriam Jul Rasmussen

Russia (10): around St.Petersburg- aristocrats and writers

Saint Petersburg was once the capital of one of the last absolute monarchies, until 1917, and consequently it got its fair share of palaces and royal residences.

We were lucky with the weather, so we spent a good time enjoying the gardens by the Baltic Sea that were once the preserve of that tiny elite that ruled over this huge country. No need to say that the display of wealth in these palaces was inversely proportional to the poverty of the subjects. While the Russian peasants lived literally like in the middle ages, its aristocrats were so much in their role, that refused to speak anything other than French among themselves.

We had also the chance to visit to places that have its honour place in Russian literature, Pavlovsk, summer retreat of the St.Petersburg elite some 150 years ago and setting of The Idiot by Dostoievsky (that I happened to be reading at the time of the visit!), and Pushkin (previously Tsarskoe-Selo), named after the famous poet, that lived and went to school here.

Russia (9): the capital of the Tsars

Saint Petersburg was built in a swamp by order of Peter The Great, the Russian tsar that wanted to make it Russia's gate to Europe. The city has a truly European flair and you can realise how its urbanism borrowed from Rome, Paris, Amsterdam...anyway, the result was really spectacular and I liked it, maybe because I like cities that interact with water.

Russia (8): On the way to Saint Petersburg

It's time to change the setting, after a few days in Moscow we are going to visit the European capital of Russia. The Nevsky Express, a fast, modern, train that covers the distance between Russia's two main cities nonstop in less than 4 hours, advances through the Russian plains and the immensity of Russia swallows us...on time to see the night opening of bridges in Saint Petersburg...!

PS: the day after we got back from Russia the Nevsky Express was the target of a terrorist attack that injured a number of people.